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Marietta

I am a first year grower but have followed and researched the hobby for a few years prior to this attempt. I live in Georgia so I am being realistic and shooting for a 300 pounder or so for my first time. My question pertains to the amount or length of plant needed to support a fruit of this size. Plenty of info for the bigger guys but wondering about something considerably smaller. I'm currently about 12 foot at the present but not a lot of secondary's. Any knowledge is much appreciated

6/10/2025 6:43:59 PM

Bethlehem CT

12 feet should be plenty.

6/10/2025 8:26:49 PM

Ontario

Yeah, 12 foot long is decent to start pollinating. Any main vine female you see, try and get pollinated. However, I would recommend you don't trim secondaries or the main growing tips until it fills in at least 400 square feet.

6/10/2025 8:52:51 PM

Ontario

However, some have grown 1000 pounds in only 150 square feet, and I grew a 400 pounder a few years back on only about 100 square feet, so it can be done on less, the fruit will just likely shut down earlier with smaller plants as the few leaves and vines you have age.

[Last edit: 06/10/25 8:54:50 PM]

6/10/2025 8:54:27 PM

Brooktondale, New York

I wondered the same question for the last few years. What really, really seems to matter is the number of tap roots that you have well established. What ever you can do to get them touching the ground. Pin em, throw a brick on em, use rocks to hold them down. I do not have a real minimum however here is my observations. A well rooted main with random secondaries grew a 232 my first year. A crappy rooted 14 ish foot main with few sparce secondaries failed to produce any kins on eight different plants two years ago.
Which brings us to last year. 16 wide by 20 long (320sq ft)with a proper care ie focus on rooting, supported a single 440 est. As well as a different plant same size grew two one 300 est and 381 UOW. (681 lbs total). I know heat in the south is a killer, so shade that little kin keep er cool. Ideal pollination temperature 68-72 F (thanks Bubba) Temperature can increase to the mid eighties, growers will place cool cans, creating a micro climate on pollination day. Keep her shaded forever more. (F-O-R-E-V-E-R) Sand lot reference. Seems many things come together to make it work. Keep diligent about getting the plant well established ie root=fruits. An keep a close eye on temperature. I have still yet to grow a real fruit but little ones I am pretty good at. I am hopeful this long winded explanation provides insight into my observations improving your success. You could always sing to yourself when you're out in the patch, Bury me in Georgia, bury me underneath the vine..that might help too. Stay well and have fun.

6/11/2025 7:18:35 AM

Centennial Colorado

I was able to get to 326 with 10 leaves, but a June 10th pollination. I was able to get to 304 and 159 on about 150 square feet mid- august pollination. Also able to get 1133 and 1001 in a combined 900 square foot patch with July 17th pollination. I was at 5900 feet of elevation for the first two mentioned and 6200 feet for the last two mentioned. While I don't have southern heat, I do have strong light intensity, so I would say shade netting was the biggest factor in my results. I use frozen water bottles on pollination day if it is really hot out. I put them near the pumpkin.

6/11/2025 11:32:53 AM

Westmoreland, KS

So Sam I would say you are kind of thinking about this the wrong way. It isn't so much of how big the plant is but how healthy the plant is. You really should map out an area say 15 feet by 15 feet and you need to then try to get that soil as prefect as you can. (this will require soil samples and it may take a few years depending on budget/knowledge) If you know you soil and you have a good soil sample you can then grow the best plant possible. Daily waterings and maybe some daily fertilizing and your plants will grow gang busters. Your goal is to get that plant to fill every inch of your alotted area this then will grow you a big pumpkin. A small healthy plant can grow a big pumpkin best of luck!

6/11/2025 1:07:24 PM

Marietta

Soil is good. Prepped over winter and did soil test before planting. I have a great main but feel I should have more secondary growth to support a fruit. I have a female that will open in a few days and I'm trying to decide whether it's too early. We've been lucky with temps and lots of rain but summer will show up soon enough and heat may hinder a stressed plant producing. The female is in a good spot so should I roll with it?

6/11/2025 4:24:37 PM

Marietta

Just looked at the 3 week forecast and it is very favorable. It's getting pollinated

6/11/2025 5:07:33 PM

Syracuse, NY

I've been thinking lately that the plants are just trying to grow the main vine quickly and I believe that for others their secondaries have simply caught up when the plant felt like it.
I am no heavy hitter butt I do know that I've never worried about secondary growth and it varies from plant to plant.
Good Luck, of course! eg

6/11/2025 10:26:13 PM

Colorado

Lack of secondaries means something is holding the plant back if the main is 12ft.A 300lber shouldnt be a problem. You might try spoon feeding a balanced fertilizer to get those side vines to develop. Trying things will help with your bag of tricks. You wont want to stop at 300lbs. Good luck.

6/11/2025 11:42:36 PM

this comes up every few years

https://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=274196

https://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=303992

https://www.bigpumpkins.com/MsgBoard/ViewThread.asp?b=10&p=661856

6/14/2025 10:15:24 PM

Bethlehem CT

Phosphorous would make sense as a possible culprit, as it is not very available to the plants in cold soil.

6/15/2025 8:20:29 AM